PEG-20 Stearyl Ether
Pharcos S 20
Also known as: Polyoxyethylene 20 Stearyl Ether | Macrogol Stearyl Ether 20 | Brij 78 Equivalent
Pharcos S 20 (HLB ~15.3) is produced by heavily ethoxylating Stearyl Alcohol. What makes Steareth-20 entirely unique among emulsifiers is its phenomenal chemical resilience. Unlike ester-based emulsifiers (like Polysorbates or Glyceryl Stearates) which 'saponify' and destroy themselves in highly alkaline environments, Steareth-20 is an ether. This ether linkage is virtually indestructible, making Steareth-20 the undisputed backbone of aggressive cosmetic products like lye-based hair relaxers and thioglycolate hair removal creams.
Quick Information
- Product Line:
- Personal Care
- Category:
- Emulsifiers
- Grade:
- Solid / Waxy
- CAS Number:
- 9005-00-9
Key Applications
- Hair Relaxers / Straighteners
- Depilatory (Hair Removal) Creams
- Bleach Creams
- High pH Emulsifier
How It Works
Ether Linkage vs Ester Linkage.
In a hair removal cream, the pH must be pushed to roughly 11.5 - 12.5 to dissolve human hair keratin. Traditional emulsifiers (esters) placed in a pH 12 environment undergo alkaline hydrolysis—they literally chemically snap in half, turning the cream into a separated watery mess in hours. Steareth-20 utilizes carbon-oxygen-carbon 'ether' bonds that are completely immune to alkaline hydrolysis. The emulsion remains thick, luxurious, and perfectly stable, safely holding the aggressive actives until applied to the user's skin.
Technical Information
Common questions about PEG-20 Stearyl Ether
You can, as Ceteareth-20 is also a resilient ether. However, purely using the Stearyl chain (Steareth-20) provides a rigid, stiffer, more protective cream structure than the softer Cetearyl blend, which is often crucial for consumer safety in high-pH relaxers.
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